Sorry about the last post being unfinished, not sure what happened there. It is surprisingly hard to find the time and inspiration to write this blog, even though we aren't working full time - maybe it's the heat, maybe it's walking down the steps outside 50 times a day to get water, but the days seem to fill up quickly and we feel worn out at the end of each day!
Anyway we had a fabulous time on Atauro Island with Heather, Bruce, Nellie & Henry. The snorkelling was amazing, definitely the main attraction of Atauro. There is an excellent reef with drop off which you can get to easily from the jetty and it's like swimming in an aquarium. The accommodation is basic but clean, the best feature being the hammocks which we put to good use.
After a much appreciated rest it was back to Dili on the very expensive but enjoyable ferry. We got some gorgeous views of Atauro from the boat. After a tearful farewell to Heather & Bruce we drove back to Balibo. As we were coming into the outskirts of the town, we were greeted by a group of schoolgirls who on seeing Charlie in the car yelled out “Charlie, Charlie!!” He is definitely the most well known member of this party!
We then had 10 days before we went to Bali, and Poz was getting a lot done. We would have like to have had longer in between Atauro and Bali but that was how it worked out with our visas. Bali was a bit surreal after being here. The breakfast buffet was awesome, as was the little cafe we discovered near our hotel which made great coffee and the best salads. We had a really great day at the Waterbom water park thanks to Lynny, there were no queues and we went on tons of slides until we literally couldn't climb any more stairs! So basically Bali was food, the water park and the swimming pool at the hotel was pretty cool too. It was a welcome break but I don't think we'll be rushing back there.
When we got back from Bali we made our usual visit to the post office in search of the elusive parcel which Georgie sent about 2 weeks after we arrived. The woman in there knows us pretty well now. This time she was asleep with her head on the desk. Poz called “mana, mana” (sister). She raised her head with her arms still folded on the table, took one look at us, scowled “lae iha” (no have) and promptly went back to sleep. We will go back, not expecting to ever get the parcel but just looking forward to more positive interactions with friendly post office staff.
In the couple of weeks since we've been back from Bali, the main things which have happened have been our invitation to a “one month post death memorial mass and dinner”, the soccer tournament and Independence Day.
First up the funeral which was for a old bloke who lived to 82 which is pretty good going around here.We think they are a wealthy family which is lucky as after a death the family has these one month,three month , six month and then twelve month celebration.The invitation which was like a wedding invitation had a 6.00 pm start time ,so we turned up about 730 and things eventually kicked off about 10.00 pm .
We were given VIP treatment as in being asked to eat first which made us feel uncomfortable.We had finished our two courses by which time the lineup was out the door as there would have been at least 500 people there.The family has to turn it on at these functions otherwise the dead person spirits will come back to haunt them.Families will go into debt to make sure this obligation is met,also different family members are obliged to provide a pig or cow depending on their means.This was on a Saturday night and followed up on Sunday night with another banquet then a mass at church and walking up to graveyard to place flower arrangements and candles.
RIP Daniel Da Cruz
Speaking of mass recently there has been a series of prayer mass taking place at individual houses .So it's quite nice having a bath in the outside bathroom in the evening listening to the beautiful hymn singing,feels like a religious experience as you sit there pouring water over yourself.
As part of Independence Day celebrations there has been a soccer comp running sponsored by members of the Balibo community living in England. There is two games every afternoon with the final on the day before Independence Day.It's a great social occasion with the crowd being really vocal ,cheering ,running on the field etc.Also exciting when a bunch of piglets runs through the game with everyone shouting and throwing things at them.
The final was a huge occasion with a crowd of hundreds.The crowd is lined up right on the sideline with a gap maintained by the police for the sub administrator to sit back in his chair and have a clear view.Part of the linesman duty is to run back and forth belting people with his stick with the yellow flag attached,he was really laying into them !!.
There is quite a high level of skill on show which made it good to watch. It was a tense last 10 min with the Palaka team scoring to make it 2 to 1 in favour of the Balibo 5 team however the home team hung on for the win.
Pandemonium then broke out, everyone running onto the field mobbing the players,waving flags etc. The celebrations then moved off field with players being escorted by revving motorcycles,beeping horns and screaming fans.
Thank god the locals won.
Moving away with the crowd Charlie was moved to say the immortal words “ I love this damm country!!”
Independence Day the next morning kicked off at 10 am with the sefi,s of the 5 different suku ,s marching in with a Timor flag each followed by their community. There was a very good choir singing the national anthem which interestingly is sung in Portuguese which half the people can't speak.
Then a very formal flag raising involving goose stepping and military style yelling. The sub administrator then made a very long speech in Tetun which we couldn't of course understand a word of except at the end when he said Viva Timor Leste. At which point the crowds of children broke and ran straight towards us to get a free water and everyone started shaking hands and wishing each other happy Independence Day. It was actually quite moving as they have only had their independence for 15 years and at the cost of many lives. It made us think how our days such as Anzac Day can be emotional but are more abstract given the passing of time, whereas here it is still raw.
The tebe tebe (dancing) then began which involves dancing in a big circle or a line dance to local music, with the occasional chicken dance music being played. That is the actual chicken dance music we know and love. It was excellent to be part of despite our lack of coordination with the dancing. Also good to see Virge being wooed by an old bloke with blood red betel nut teeth and alcohol fumes pouring off his body.
Other recent sights seen include six people holding down a dog being operated on, no anaesthetic I assumed and a fully grown live pig strapped on a bike. Charlie saw a rooster with a knife blade tied to leg for the cook fighting.
My work at kindergarten continues with a few delays such as Thursday there being no water coming out of tap and Friday there being no workers!! Speaking of water the kindergarten has a one inch pipe which they share with a house on the other side of the wall by means of sticking the hose through a hole in the wall depending on who needs it. So I thought a tap in my new kitchen would be a great idea not knowing that firstly sometimes there is not water to gravity feed out of a tap 800 mm of the ground so I had to cut in another tap at floor level. Then I had to cut in another tap to turn water on and off next door as at night when they are finished with water they would shove hose back through hole and flood the new kitchen!! All this involved putting a pipe through wall and tap next door which was an experience seeing their kitchen and bathroom needless to say I knocked back the offer of a coffee. Luckily Windsor Rotary Club (Jimmy's old club) have donated money towards a project and I am looking at putting a water tank in.
I start work at 8am by going around to kindy to open up and are surrounded by all the kids shouting “malae malae “ which is foreigner.They are very very cute and can't wait for me to open gates so they can play on rusty old swings and slippery dip.
The kindergarten extension.
