Saturday, July 22, 2017

Weddings and other extremely long experiences

The main event of the last two weeks was Marino and Rofina's wedding. This was held while Cruz Joven was at their aldea- 18 couples got married in total, at the same service.  These guys have all got kids but although they are a very devoutly Catholic country they seem to wait for special occasion like Cruz Joven to get married by the priest in a really really long mass. It was a real honor to be invited and it was exciting to turn up at their house and see everyone dressed up for the wedding. Men in suits with traditional tais and women in beautiful colourful dresses. We were invited for 9 o'clock, we had photos etc and admired everyone then the mass started at 10.30. With 18 couples getting married and a priest who really likes the sound of his own voice, it was quite a lengthy experience, finally wrapping up 3 hours later at 1.30. The fact that we can't understand most of it does make it feel a lot longer. Although after hearing it 18 times I think I can say "until death do us part" in Tetun. During the Mass Michele got a call to say the Prime Minister was at the CLC so she ducked out to meet him, had a coffee and still made it back before the end.  We were pretty hungry by this stage so excited to be conducted to where the food was by Marino. Sat down, he said we just have to wait for the sefi so we sat there looking longingly at the food and finally got to eat at 3 o'clock.  Ross was offered a warm beer by one of his workers Filipe and that pretty much finished him off for the day.  All in all it was a great day and it was a real privilege to be there, one of the experiences we would never have if we were just passsing through.







Marino,Mario and Charlie 


                                                                                          
                                                                                     
Talking of really long experiences we had a cyclist call in on his way from Melbourne to the UK. Simon had sold the car ,rented the house and quit the job . No training rides just loaded up the pushy and headed up to Darwin and jumped on a plane to Dili .He had ridden two weeks around the south coast to get to Balibo and done it tough. Counting on street food or restaurants he had ended up eating tinned sardines and instant noodles. We got chatting and invited him to stay the night . Tuna pasta and fresh salad went down pretty well. Good to talk to another 50 year old taking a different direction in life, he is a really nice bloke and not at all crazy. You can follow him on instagram @cyclodyssey 




Simon and Charlie 

It's election time here again this time for the position of all the MPs including prime minister so we have had all the usual rallies including a visit to Balibo from Xanana  Gusmao . He is a real showman  and you can see how he has made the transition from resistance fighter to politician 
Xanana 

We are typing this with a week to go here and besides feeling very excited to be heading home ,are attempting to reflect on our 6 months .Charlie told us yesterday that coming here has "straightened him out"  (his words) yeah he  was such a delinquent before.He explained that he meant that he won't complain as much.It has been  hard for him at times here so it was good to hear that he is taking something positive away from the experience .As for us I think it will take some time to process the whole experience.It will be an emotional day next Sunday when we leave ;not due to relief but saying goodbye to some wonderful people and it has been such a huge and sometimes overwhelming 6 months.(maybe a little bit of relief!!)


Saturday, July 1, 2017

June 2017

So probably the biggest thing which has happened in the last month is Cruz Joven which means Youth Cross. After the Santa Cruz cemetery massacre in 1991, in which the Indonesians opened fire on a demonstration by students over the death of another student, killing over 250 people, a timber cross was constructed and toured the country in secret. It became a really big symbol of resistance to the Indonesian occupation. Nowadays it still tours the country, but this time with great ceremony, visiting every little aldea or village and it is a huge deal when it visits your aldea. As per the photos, it moves from one aldea to the next in a specially constructed pope mobile type vehicle with hundreds of people following it, singing and praying. The short video is the ceremony at the boundary between the two aldeas and incorporates local culture with the dancing and drumming. It had been in Balibo and then was transferred to Marino and Rofina’s aldea, Fatuk Laran. We followed the procession to their place with no real thought about what would happen next, then suddenly found ourselves conducted to the front row of the congregation for what turned out to be a whole lot of speeches followed by a 2 hour mass. That was a first for Poz, which he has no real desire to repeat! We went to just watch it go by at about 10.30 a.m., decided to follow it up the hill then somehow got caught up and ended up finally eating lunch (luckily invited to stay!) at 3pm. Like Independence Day it was a reminder of their troubled recent history and it was a privilege to be there and be part of such a significant event. It stays about a week in each village and it has been calculated that it will take about 30 years to tour the whole country so we were really lucky to be here when it came to Balibo. When it is in each village everyone gets their kids baptized or gets married - 136 people got married in Balibo last week. Next week we’ve been invited to Marino and Rofina’s wedding which will be the day before Cruz Joven moves on.





















A few funny things we want to remember…
Jemey, our landlord’s son solemnly informing us that the small plastic packages that Manuel put in the water tank were to prevent “the worm”. Somehow it sounds so much worse in the singular. We were horrified, thinking “what worm???!!!”
Ou





Charlie’s comeback, after Poz gave him a roasting about something then when trying to discuss his lack of contrition “it's no use dwelling in the past Dad. I know I've done something wrong but you have to move on.”
Ginny’s Balibo identity “Charlie ama” - Charlie’s Mum. This is what kids call out to me as I go by.
Going to our second post funeral function (40 days after original funeral). Once again sat around for 3 hours until 10.30 before invited to eat - as usual had to go to buffet table first which makes one feel extremely self conscious. Poz had left to look after Charlie at home just 10 min earlier so he had all the waiting and none of the eating. Then drinks not offered until eating finished - but happily, instead of warm Bintang, they produced Sangria! Just wish it had appeared at 7pm instead of 11.30.
Mana Kela’s 3 year old daughter with her pathological fear of malae (i.e., us) bursting into terrified tears every time she lays eyes on us.
Marino and Poz going to do maintenance on the solar water pump, two up on the moto with a 6 foot step ladder, machete, hand saw and bucket. What could go wrong?
Charlie carrying his chicken Minkle around Balibo in shoulder bag as per photo.




Meeting yet another person with a Hawkesbury connection. In addition to meeting a former builder from Kurrajong, a couple from North Richmond, a woman who used to live in Bowen Mountain, the other day we met a couple who went to Hawkesbury Ag College who asked over a few drinks did we know the McEwans. Hmm, only John & Maia & their son Bani, Ross’s apprentice! We've only probably talked to about a dozen passing Australians since being here so it's pretty weird.